Installing Documentation



First off, I cleaned the steel angles using mentholated spirits, in order to remove and dirt, rust or grit. I then laid them in order of where they were to be assembled with in the room. I was torn between two ways of construction and presentation of the frames. I could either have had the framed panels facing out wards, with the perspex siliconed inside, or alternatively i could switch the frames inside out, as to have the frames on the inside of the structure. I chose this way, as i liked the clean frontal panels with the frame on the inside, as it reminded me more of the shop window feel [voyeuristic].



I then laid them on the floor and cleaned the inside of the frames once more, to insure the best bond when i use the mastic to fix the perspex to the angles. With the help of Charlotte, we carefully pealed back a couple of inches of the protective sheets on the perspex, enough for them to fit on the angles yet keeping them safe at the same time. What we learnt worked best was if we taped the loose polly protective sheet out of the way, so that it was not to get caught between the frame.

I used CT1 Clear silicon adhesive to bond the perspex to the steel. This product wouldn’t ‘concrete’ the two together, but intact very securely hold it together but allow room for slight expansion in the perspex. This was necessary as perspex can contract and expand up to 10mm in changes in temperature. I did not want the sheets to split.



Whilst the perspex was bonding to the frames, i painted the bright shiny nuts and bolts black, in order to dim them and make them suit the rest of the structure. They were to clean and clinical.



In order for me to gain access into the structure, i could have had a ladder to climb in and out, but due to fire hazards and health and safety, i would have had to keep the ladder inside for the duration of the show. This would take away all i was trying to achieve and create something entirely different. The other option was to cut a hole in one of the back panels, small enough just for me to be able to get in.

I took one of the back panels of perspex and carried it down to the wood work shop. here i measured out an appropriate height and with for me to be able to crawl through. I then drilled two holes into each corner of the marked out section, and then with a jigsaw, i began to cut the hole out, leaving a couple of millimetres off the actual marked area, so that i could then tidy my lines up later using a router drill.


When it came to routing out the remaining rough edges of the hole, i had to build a frame with 16mm MDF underneath the perspex to act as a guid for the router drill. With the help of Will from wood work, this allowed me to give a smooth finnish to the edges, and rounded off corners, so that the likely hood of the perspex to split and crack was minimised.


I then had to think about the floor, and how i was going to fix the boards so that they would not move whilst i was working within the structure. I cut three boards of 16mm MDF to the exact internal dimensions of the frame, and placed the pine boards on top, as a visual guid to help ensure the correct lengths, and so that i could nail them into place.

IMG_9005 IMG_9006

Whilst i tried my best to keep the boards straight on the MDF boards, dues to the nature of the wood, some of the planks were slightly warped, thus not creating a flush look, and it was left with gaps.

photo 1-1 photo 2 photo 3

In order to fill the gaps, i cut several thin lengths of spare boarding a couple of MM thicker than the gap in question. In order to get an even and fitted solution, I had to use several tools to file the sections appropriately.

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Finished structure



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